Mallorca´s valley of gold is a magnet for visitors, seduced by its majestic natural beauty, handsome town of Soller and its port. abcmallorca looks at some hot prospects for eating out in the Soller valley this summer.
In 2012, Dubai’s five-star Jumeirah hotel group will have its first Southern European hotel…in Puerto de Soller.
A decade ago, it would have been an unlikely location for a luxury hotel: the port resort was past its prime, with heavy summer traffic’s fumes and noise detracting from its natural charms. But in the past few years, serious investment has diverted traffic away from the seafront and spruced up the promenade. The resort has raised its game and is in great shape for a prestigious international hotel brand. The holidaymakers’ must-have resort facilities remain, but the place has a smarter look and, on the beach, it’s now possible to hear the water lapping on the shore. The improvements have stimulated a raising of standards: typical tourist eateries have been joined by restaurants and cafes with a little more panache and culinary interest. There’s now something for all tastes.
At the far end of the port (follow the naval base signs), there’s a parking area near a gleaming contemporary metal tree sculpture. Nearby, among an eclectic mix of eating places housed in quaint buildings, is So Caprichos (Tel + 34 971 63 00 95). Open all day, its attractive terrace is decked with flowed-filled planters and offers glorious mountain views. Specials here are their hot-stone-cooked meats, and 15,90 € set lunch.
Traffic-free, the harbourside road (Es Traves) is now a pleasant place to stroll. Shops, restaurants and cafes along the way offer Soller’s own renowned ice cream, but the delicious home-made ice cream from Io Gelats Artesans – strategically sited opposite the tram terminus – is a must. Flavours include coffee and brandy, mascarpone and fig, and chocolate and blood orange. One of us even felt compelled to eat a second cone . . .
The port’s style icon is Hotel Esplendido (Tel +34 971 63 18 50). This mid-50s classic re-opened in 2006 as one of Mallorca’s coolest seaside hotels, after a major refurbishment by its new proprietors. The “modern-vintage” interior is the design of the owners – the Swedish couple who also have Palma’s Portixol Hotel – and includes original 1970s Scandinavian art. The slick bright Bistro serves great food, indoors or on the sea-facing terrace – including a lunchtime menu del dia, around 16 €. We liked the menu footnote: “VAT and smile included”. In a quiet back street the restaurant Airecel (Tel + 34 971 63 12 00), is within the Hotel Aimia, with indoor and garden tables. They serve coffee and cake (3 €), snacks (soups, omelettes, sandwiches and pizzas) and a la carte Mediterranean dishes.
At Platja d’en Repic, on the other side of the harbour, smart Es Passeig (Tel +34 971 63 02 17) is on a stretch of beachfront eateries, where chef Marcel Battenberg (who’s worked at Dieter Mueller’s German three-Michelin-star restaurant) prepares fresh creative Mediterranean cuisine and a popular three-course set lunch. Platja d’en Repic’s best restaurant location is that of Agapanto (Tel +34 971 63 38 60), where the large terrace offers breathtaking views. Owner Ana Maria Sturm has created an attractive decor and warm, welcoming atmosphere in which to savour Mediterranean Mallorcan dishes.
Their beach sunbeds are perfect for a post-lunch chill- out.
The Camino del Faro winds its way up to Mallorcan family-run Es Faro (Tel +34 971 63 37 52). Open daily, 9am until midnight, for drinks, snacks, and meals (fresh fish and seafood – particularly Soller prawns – are skilfully prepared), with a gull’s eye view over the harbour and open sea. Away from the port, two charming rural hotels are great prospects: Ca’s Xorc (Tel +34 971 63 82 80) is a 200-year-old finca nestling in the mountains, whose restaurant offers a weekly-changing lunchtime Mediterranean ‘Bistro Menu’ (including their special Paella Ca’s Xorc), a weekend lunch ‘Surprise Menu’, and evening a la carte and tasting menus.
Ca N’Ai (Tel +34 971 63 24 94) is close to Soller, accessed from the Deia road. Dating from 1723, this exquisite finca has a romantic outdoor terrace with views across the countryside to the town. Dinner reservations (Mallorcan cuisine) are recommended, as priority is given to hotel residents (the perfect excuse to stay the night).
For gastronomic ‘new Balearic cuisine’ (and a great “tasting menu”) with the bonus of stunning Deia bay views, there’s chef Benet Vicens’ renowned restaurant Bens d’Avall (Tel +34 971 63 23 81) – follow the signs from the Soller-Deia road.
In Soller itself, boutique hotel L’Avenida (Tel +34 971 63 40 75), is housed in a retro-chic-styled Modernist mansion, built by one of Gaudi’s pupils. Their restaurant serves lunch only, al fresco in the summer. At Sa Tafona (Tel + 34 971 63 12 28) – the restaurant at Ca’l Bisbe Hotel (a former bishop’s residence) – dine indoors or on the tranquil terrace. Cuisine is based on traditional Mallorcan dishes. Overlooking Placa Constitucio is Toni Oliver’s La Vila hotel and cafe- restaurant (Tel +34 971 63 46 41), occupying an historic Modernismo mansion. Both hotel and chef Luca Dalla Torre’s Italian-influenced cuisine receive rave reviews on TripAdvisor.
We dined at Can Blau, a la carte restaurant of the five-star but comfortably relaxed Gran Hotel Soller – a distinguished small palace built in1880 as a private residence, later part-converted into a leather factory (which produced many of the boots worn by soldiers in the First World War). Over cava in the lounge, we browsed and chose from the menu, before being shown to our table in the intimate restaurant by Sebastian Perret, the charming and knowledgeable French maitre d’. He recommended a Blanc de Blanca 2009 and Negre 2008 from the young Bodegas Angel (owned by Andres Gelabert Jr – the hotel proprietor’s son). Definitely wines to watch out for . . . We particularly enjoyed the well-executed, pleasingly presented scallop starter, and main course dishes of succulent beef entrecote with juice of “Angel”, and plump baked fillet of fresh cod caramelized in orange oil, with a colourful saute? of baby potatoes, cherry tomatoes and kalamata olives.
And although we sampled several sublime desserts between us, we found just enough space to end our meal with dainty macaroons and coffee in the lounge. For the quality of chef Javier Weil’s cuisine and the quietly professional service, it’s exceptional value (22€ for two courses/29 € for three courses). Once experienced, Can Blau and the Soller valley’s other culinary temptations are sure to entice you back.
Link to: Restaurants in Soller and Port Soller
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