There is nothing simple about Simply Fosh
Simple to find? Definitely not! Tucked away in a back street in the heart of Palma, and housed in a discreet hotel (Convent de la Mission), is the newest addition to the Fosh brand: Simply Fosh. Probably the best-known chef on the island – certainly in the English-speaking community – he made newspaper headlines recently when, after 14 years, he decided to leave Reads Hotel in Santa Maria, where he had gained his Michelin star in 2002.
Saying goodbye to the star was not difficult, Marc says: “I was ready for a new challenge, to do something completely different.” So what is different? “We wanted to create an informal atmosphere, to get rid of the table cloths, the foam dressings, and the formality in the service. We want a relaxed and friendly atmosphere where you can enjoy good food, at a reasonable price.”
Well, that is exactly what seems to be on offer. The waiters are dressed in casual t-shirts. The table tops are exposed and the crockery unpretentious. Whether you are a fan or not of the décor, you would have to agree that it is indeed unique for the island: palm trees growing out of the floor and through the ceiling; a large waterfall; and a combination of wall-to-wall stark black-and-white photos of the salt fields of Ses Salines, dark wooden floors and tall windows. It makes for a memorable experience.
And what about the food? I hear you ask. Well let’s start with the menu, shall we? Simple it is. You see, this is where I have a problem with the concept of ‘simple’ because creating simple is really difficult. You have to really, really know what you are doing to present sophisticated food in a simple way. The wine list, for example, offers a wide selection of wines under three price categories: €18, €26.50 and €38. The daily lunch and dinner menus are straightforward: 3-course lunch menu for €18 and a 5-course dinner menu for €52. That’s very simple: no choice, so you don’t have to agonise over the fact that you would actually like to sample all of the specials but can only choose one!
I know I’m rambling; I’m going to get to the food in a minute. But first I need to explain to you the real reason the Fosh brand is so popular. Of course it helps that Marc is a PR machine, and a great chef; but it is also because Marc is uncomplicated: a straightforward, unassuming, down-to-earth, friendly guy. Once you have had the pleasure of meeting the man in person you will become an ‘amigo/a’ who will be remembered and warmly welcomed and whose visit is genuinely appreciated.
So finally, let’s get to the food. Marc’s cuisine continues to be based on fresh, healthy and mainly Mediterranean ingredients (local olive oil is one of his favourites). His creations are often inspired by one individual, and sometimes unusual, ingredient that he’s sourced at the nearby Mercat Olivar.
Unfortunately, Emilio (our regular reviewer) was unavailable so it was down to Thomas (our photographer) and me (the editor) to be the critics of ‘Simply Fosh’ on your behalf. We started with a chilled yellow gazpacho with marinated salmon and avocado sorbet (€9.50). This was followed by the terrine of duck, foie gras and wild mushrooms served with a pumpkin-pineapple-vanilla chutney (€12.50). Then we enjoyed smoked rice with cuttlefish tagliatelle, yellow peppers and capers, (€11.50). For the fish dish, we had a typical Spanish recipe of red pepper crusted hake with white beans, saffron and fresh clams€23.00). This was followed by succulent braised beef cheeks with sun-dried tomatoes, black olives and basil (€16.00). The dessert was simply delicious – preserved lemon cream with sweet dukkah and a cherry-rosewater sorbet (€7). If you’ve not already tried it, I would recommend the luscious dark chocolate and olive oil truffle with flor de sal and raspberry-red pepper jelly – a well-known and much appreciated Fosh creation.
While the food is perhaps more simple than one would be accustomed to from Fosh, the quality is unquestionable. I’m sure that as Marc settles in his new environment and gains lots of inspiration from his new urban surroundings, we can look forward to even more innovation and sweet surprises in the future. So when you go to Simply Fosh, don’t expect the pretentious experience of his past life because it is much more like the Fosh Food concept. If you like that, you will love Simply Fosh.
