Son Brull Restaurant Mallorca
Son Brull is an exceptional designer hotel on Mallorca. I would go so far as to say there is nothing to compare with it in terms of style, concept, atmosphere and location, so it wasn’t difficult to select the hotel’s restaurant 3/65 as the designer restaurant of choice. I had heard about its young Mallorcan chef from others in the business: he is building an excellent reputation for revitalising Mallorcan cuisine, in a unique and innovative style that both locals and visitors appreciate.
Joan Marc Garcías is a young master of his trade, who describes his original style as “a modern interpretation of Mallorcan basics”. His vocational training was undertaken at the UIB’s hotel business school in Palma. He launched his career more than ten years ago, cooking as a guest chef at Reads Hotel in Santa Maria. A year’s apprenticeship with the Barcelona-based three-star chef Santi Santamaria at Can Fabes restaurant enabled him to fine-tune his skills at the highest level of cuisine. After that, he exercised his talents at two-Michelin-star restaurant “Relais & Château Sant Pau” in Barcelona. Recently married, the 32-year-old chef has been at the Son Brull Hotel since 2002.
Restaurant 3/65 is a story of contrasts. It offers traditional Mallorcan cuisine based on local products, yet combined in a way that’s both daring and creative – guaranteeing a surprise for the taste buds. The menu offered is one you might expect to find in a top class gourmet restaurant in a major capital city. Yet it’s available in a small country hotel on the outskirts of the town of Pollensa, in the north of Mallorca.
All the elements are in place to create the perfect restaurant interior: high ceilings painted in gold; black panelled walls with discreet lighting, encasing stone-featured archways; dazzling white linen draped-tables set on the original cobblestone floor; wooden Asian-style chairs, and modern crockery and low table lighting. It’s a cool, relaxed place where the atmosphere is a contrast of laid-back yet invigorating. The young team of waiters adds to the story of contrasts: friendly and easy-going, yet offering impeccable service.
We began our 3/65 culinary experience with appetizers of puff pastry with pasticcios, pumpkin seeds coated in egg white and sugar, carrot profiterole and rice fritters. To accompany this, we sipped the “Salvatore” cocktail of chopped strawberries, raspberries and blackcurrants, mixed with cava and delicious red fruit caviar. It tasted rich and fruity like a rosé champagne with a crisp, dry flavour – and was the perfect prelude to our dinner.
The wine list is very comprehensive, with an excellent selection and – considering the surroundings – is well-priced. We chose a bottle of Mortitx Topon Blanc 2007, with aromas of bananas, pineapple, and passion fruit, which was fresh and well-rounded in the mouth.
The starter of cod fish, marinated artichokes, celery, lychees and quince purée for starters was light and soft, with a delightful texture that left me longing for more. The fresh red prawns were unusually combined with pork cheeks (a little bit too fatty for my taste) coated in romesco crumbs and served on a bed of salad leaves. ‘St. Raphel’ fish with carpaccio of pulpo, drizzled with red bell pepper coulis and decorated with chickpea and wild mushrooms, was delicious. Sea bass served with a pear chutney, spinach and sweet sherry was the main fish course. The next dish was pigeon sprinkled with a cous cous of almonds and grilled bread crumbs mixed with caramelised onion. The cheese platter consisted of a Spanish soft cheese with pineapple marmalade, blue cheese, and soft and hard cheeses from the Balearics. With little room for anything else, we managed to share a selection of desserts – our favourite was the pineapple in juniper aroma, curry and coconut ice-cream.
We predict that it will not be long before Joan Marc Garcías adds a star to his name – which will only validate his reputation as an innovative and exciting young chef, who is realising his dream of revitalizing Mallorcan cuisine. We wish him and his friendly team success and look forward to the pleasure of dining there again soon – particularly during the summer months, when the chill-out season is in full swing. Dining al fresco in the extensive garden, with its amazing mountain views, will only enhance the wonderful culinary experience of 3/65.
Menu changes each season
Opening hours 13.00-15.00, 20.00-23.00
info@sonbrull.com
