The real Mallorca
Mallorca is one of the most beautiful and fascinating islands in the Mediterranean – but for too many of Mallorca’s visitors its charms remain hidden, laments Ingrid Browning.
It’s high Summer. I’m sitting on a dappled terrace in the centre of picturesque Sóller on the north-west coast of Mallorca, savouring the silky-smooth ice-cream made just a few metres away with oranges and lemons grown in this very valley – and thinking: this is the life!
As I consider trying out a few more of the 40 – yes 40 – fantastic flavours, or perhaps moving on to the sorbets, it occurs to me that this friendly little artisanal ice cream factory, Sa Fabrica de Gelats, is one of those hidden gems that typifies what visitors to Mallorca miss when they spend their holiday lolling by the pool.
I should say first of all that I’m by no means a purist when it comes to holidays. I’m certainly not a believer that the only way to see your chosen destination is to work your way religiously through eight different “target locations” a day – four each morning and afternoon, without fail.
On the other hand, I’m positively evangelical when it comes to Mallorca: I simply can’t bear the thought that so many visitors fly in and out every year without marvelling at the majesty of the Sierra de Tramuntana, sipping a glass or two of wine as the sun sets over the fishing boats at Cala Figuera, or soaking up the atmosphere in the late Joan Miro’s studio in Palma, untouched since his death at the age of 90.
In fact, not only do they not do any of those three wonderful things, which come to me off the top of my head. Often they don’t even do the most blindingly obvious things, such as visiting Palma’s fabulous gothic cathedral – La Seu – despite the fact that it dates back to 1230 and dominates the city’s skyline.
So, what can I do to play my part in making sure that Summer 2009 is the summer as many visitors as possible move beyond the poolside and enjoy the many delights of La Isla de la Calma.
Well, I can start by listing my own Top Ten favourite places and things, and hope that some of my enthusiasm rubs off. We’ll take it that everyplace I’ve already mentioned has already been included in your new itinerary. So here’s the rest …
Take a Balloon Trip over Mallorca
Ensaimadas – Discover the 300-year-old Mallorcan Breakfast
Explore the Calas
Taste the finest Lamb in the World
Don’t miss unique Fornalutx
Relive the Scandal of Valldemosa
San Telmo
Studio Weill
Tafona Gallery
Cap de Formentor
If you do only half of what I’ve listed, you’ll have discovered something of the real Mallorca. Keep the other half for next year – you’ll never want to laze by the pool again!


