Growing up in Buenos Aires with a Mallorcan father and paternal grandparents, Adrian Quetglas’s family meals were a bridge between the traditional cooking of his grandmother – think escaldons, tumbet, and frito mallorquín, and Argentinian staples; empanadas, chimichurri and barbecue. Perhaps this early exposure to ’third culture‘ cuisine – a fusing of two ethnic cuisines to form a third innovative hybrid – influenced his culinary inventiveness. Surely, his professional experiences in kitchens from Paris to Moscow has shaped his technique.
Quetglas’ s mission to “democratize haute cuisine” is reflected in his menu and his international staff. His namesake restaurant won him a Michelin star in 2017, proof that diversity creates change for the greater good.
The restaurant is on Paseo Mallorca, Palma and décor is contemporary and smart: floors and tables are wooden, and the chairs are comfortable.
As well as indoor seating, there are tables on the canopied terrace at the front, but we sat indoors for the air-conditioning.
We had the seven-course tasting menu offered at night; for a reasonable additional cost you can enjoy matched wines with the five savoury courses.
Our dinner began with a deconstructed tortilla and serrano ham, presented in a small white bowl.
A taste of Russia was next: Adrian’s creative version of borsch: a delicious clarified beetroot soup containing tiny pieces of carrot and three ‘raviolis’ made from beetroot jelly and stuffed with crème fraiche. A Quetglas classic.
Next we had plump juicy mussels (3) with a flavourful risotto of herbs and saffron, served in a hot bowl. We stayed with the sea for the next course: an elegantly presented fat tender scallop served with a slice of plum, pieces of salsify (not often seen on restaurant menus), celeriac purée, and black garlic; excellent.
Two of our party requested and received an alternative meat dish to the rabbit loin on the menu for our visit. The rabbit though was tender and, served with pak choi, figs, cashew nuts, and a foie gras foam, had textural variety.
As has become popular on tasting menus, there were two desserts: first, apricots with coffee caramel and iced meringue made with Mallorcan almonds; finally, a palate-freshening melon soup, containing a quenelle of lime sorbet and garnished with a few rocket leaves. We’d had an excellent dinner, with good service from maître d’ Tino Codesal and his team; we look forward to trying their very affordable lunchtime menu of the week, offering two courses and a dessert.
For an alternative lunchtime experience, try the six-course set tasting menu. Alternatively enjoy two of the menu’s courses and a dessert for a surprisingly good price.