When Marc Fosh took on a consultancy role for a restaurant in Moscow, Adrián Quetglas – then his sous chef – went to work there. Over a decade he built up a great reputation, serving high-quality Spanish food to appreciative Russian diners. Now he’s returned to Mallorca, with his name over the door of one of Palma’s newest restaurants. We went to try the fortnightly-changing seven-course tasting menu, which has been receiving rave reviews.
English, Spanish & German
The restaurant is on Paseo Mallorca, where several new bars and restaurants have opened in recent months. The décor is contemporary and smart: floors and tables are wooden, and the chairs are comfortable.
As well as indoor seating, there are tables on the canopied terrace at the front, but we sat indoors for the air-conditioning.
We had the seven-course tasting menu offered at night; for a reasonable additional cost you can enjoy matched wines with the five savoury courses.
Our dinner began with a deconstructed tortilla and serrano ham, presented in a small white bowl.
A taste of Russia was next: Adrian’s creative version of borsch: a delicious clarified beetroot soup containing tiny pieces of carrot and three ‘raviolis’ made from beetroot jelly and stuffed with crème fraiche. A Quetglas classic.
Next we had plump juicy mussels (3) with a flavourful risotto of herbs and saffron, served in a hot bowl. We stayed with the sea for the next course: an elegantly presented fat tender scallop served with a slice of plum, pieces of salsify (not often seen on restaurant menus), celeriac purée, and black garlic; excellent.
Two of our party requested and received an alternative meat dish to the rabbit loin on the menu for our visit. The rabbit though was tender and, served with pak choi, figs, cashew nuts, and a foie gras foam, had textural variety.
As has become popular on tasting menus, there were two desserts: first, apricots with coffee caramel and iced meringue made with Mallorcan almonds; finally, a palate-freshening melon soup, containing a quenelle of lime sorbet and garnished with a few rocket leaves. We’d had an excellent dinner, with good service from maître d’ Tino Codesal and his team; we look forward to trying their very affordable lunchtime menu of the week, offering two courses and a dessert.
For an alternative lunchtime experience, try the six-course set tasting menu. Alternatively enjoy two of the menu’s courses and a dessert for a surprisingly good price.
In October 2016 Adrián Quetglas was named Russia’s ‘chef of the year’, and his Moscow restaurant AQ Kitchen was named third-best restaurant in Russia. In November 2016, Michelin announced one star for 2017 for his Palma restaurant Adrián Quetglas.