This restaurant has now closed permanently.
Two 1940s film projectors – forming a guard of honour either side of the steps up to the entrance – are testament to Can Costa’s heritage.
For some three decades now, the emblematic 19th century building in the heart of Pollensa town has been a restaurant, under a succession of owners. Latterly, it was a venue for events in the town.
Cesar Soto opened Can Costa as a restaurant again, to seemingly enthusiastic locals and visitors. Within a month of opening, the 40-seater restaurant filled on several occasions, and Cesar reports plenty of repeat business – the restaurateur’s dream.
Perhaps that’s not surprising: the new Mallorcan owner has considerable experience in the hospitality industry. Tristán (when it held a Michelin star), Es Vi (Castillo Hotel Son Vida), Gran Hotel Son Net and Michelin-starred Tantris in Munich (so he could learn German) are all on his CV.
His Can Costa philosophy is to offer competitively priced cuisine that’s not pretentious, based on fresh food from the daily market, in a sophisticated and spacious but welcoming space. And with his small professional and friendly serving team he’s already managed to create the atmosphere of a family restaurant.
For his kitchen, Cesar enlisted the services of Jordi Calvache – a young Catalan chef who initially became known on the island at Son Julia Hotel and Es Vi. For Can Costa, Calvache has created a seasonal à la carte menu, along with two tempting tasting menus: five courses 32,50 euros; seven courses 39,50 euros (both including VAT). At lunchtime there’s a weekly three-course menu for 14,90 euros (including bread, water, glass of wine or beer).
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We went at night, arriving to a warm welcome from Cesar and introduction to chef Jordi. The décor is a pleasing combination of light walls (and long sheer drapes that can be used to partition parts of the space), modern art, and dark ceilings. Contemporary and sophisticated, it feels inviting. Tables are well spaced and the dark leather chairs comfortable. Jazz played in the background when we visited.
Our five-course tasting menu began after an appetizer from the kitchen: a small glass of the Andalusian garlicky ‘salmorejo’ containing a confit strawberry. Then, first up: tartar of tuna with avocado cream and tangy kaffir lime vinaigrette. I declined the next course – not being a fan of eggs – but accepted the offer of a (generous) slice of foie with confit strawberries with vanilla and a Pedro Ximénez reduction. This was followed by what Cesar hopes will become known as the Can Costa signature dish: tagliatelle – finished off inside a hollowed- out 38-kilo wheel of parmesan and given a truffle oil flourish. The server does this alongside the table, adding a theatrical touch.
My favourite dish was grilled plump scallops with a citrus salad and orange and Campari reduction. Our dessert was the unusual (and rather good) Gin & Tonic textures with a moreish lemon and thyme sorbet and – at Cesar’s invitation (it would have been rude to decline) – we also tried the rich moist chocolate brownie with red fruits and caramelized walnuts. It should be mentioned that Can Costa can cater for vegetarians and coeliacs.
We were impressed by the wine list. Although small, it features some good wines from Mallorca (including from the area’s Mortitx bodega) and the mainland, at surprisingly keen prices. A bottle of Ses Nines (Tianna Negre) is 16 euros. Cesar doesn’t want cost to become a reason for his diners not to enjoy a bottle of wine. We like the way he thinks . .
Pollença’s newest restaurant and cocktail bar may bear the same name as its predecessors, but Can Costa is a whole new proposition – and worth discovering.
More about Hotel Son Julia
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