Clandestí Taller Gastronòmic originally opened within the Palma cookware store Cocinaria but, at the end of March 2017, opened in independent premises in a street off Palma’s C/ General Riera (off the central ring road, known as the Avenidas).
Clandestí Taller Gastronòmic
Clandestí means ‘secret’ and there’s an exclusive and hideaway feel to this restaurant owned and run by two talented and enthusiastic young chefs. A maximum of 12 people share an intimate experience, watching the chefs in action and then eating lunch or dinner all together at the same time, in a stylish contemporary setting.
Chefs Pau Navarro and Ariadna Salvador not only work together, they are also a couple. Still only in his mid-20s, Palma-born Pau has packed some skills-building experience into his career. After formal training he did a stage at El Celler de Can Roca, then worked at Michelin-starred L’Aliança in Girona, before returning to Mallorca. He’s spent time in the kitchens of Andreu Genestra, Marc Fosh (then Simply Fosh), Argos (he was second chef in its first year), and Santi Taura. Ariadna was born in Valencia (with Argentinian parents) and has been on Mallorca for three years. As well as assisting Pau, she creates the delicious desserts here.
At lunchtimes (Thursday to Sunday) they serve a five-course lunch, including water, for an affordable price. Dinner is currently served on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights and comprises eight dishes, including water. There’s no menu card: “All you know when you eat here is how much you’ll pay,” says Pau, who believes people want to know in advance what they’ll spend.
Pau is a regular visitor to Pere Garau market for seasonal and organic Mallorcan produce. The chefs have the benefit of a Kamado grill.
The Mallorcan market cuisine reveals Pau’s pride in his island’s culinary heritage. Menus start with an assortment of finger food, and end with Ariadna’s delicious petits fours.
Stand-out dishes we ate included a ‘variat’: a typical Mallorcan dish offered in numerous bars and cafes, but rarely this good; comprising five elements, it’s the dish that requires most work. Monkfish liver, cooked in the Kamado grill for a few minutes and served with sherry vinegar, fennel, and spheres of balsamic vinegar, was another tasty revelation dish.
We enjoyed a comfort-food stew of mountain rabbit, black pork, confit white beans, and ‘esclata sang’ mushrooms, cooked slowly in the Kamado. “My intention is that these spoon dishes evoke home and childhood,” Pau told us. Our meal included a wide variety of other local ingredients too, including herbs, prickly pear fruit, figs (from Son Mut), pigeon breast, and local fish llampuga and verderol.
Clandestí Taller Gastronòmic offers an authentic Mallorcan culinary experience, with quite a few differences. You do need to book your place in advance. The restaurant is also available for private parties for a minimum of 10 people outside the usual opening days.
Thursday 14:00h & 21:00h
Friday 14:00h & 21:00h
Note: Open all year.
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