Restaurant Es Fanals by Javier Soriano is at the highest point of the Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa, on the 9th level where Soller’s mountainous terrain meets the sea. Dedicated to locally-sourced ingredients, Javier Soriano makes a commitment to the 0km philosophy.
Upon entering, Es Fanals channels a tranquil interior of smooth creams and light fabrics which works well as base for Javier Soriano’s vibrant Mediterranean menu. His precision for pairing flavours really takes precedence at Es Fanals, through which his training at Michelin-starred establishments is evidently clear.
Javier’s menu starts with an offering of freshly-baked bread, olive oils and salts, all sourced within minimum radius. Our waiters – friendly and charming – inform us of every detail, from the aroma of the Mallorcan olive to the Flor de Sal crystal salt from Es Trenc. A few droplets from the olive oil Sarantry makes a real impression for its light aftertaste.
As we eat, Es Fanal’s sunset views turn from the colour of strained apricots to a raspberry hue. Our table sits in the corner of their stone patio, providing the perfect backdrop to Javier’s exquisite food.
Our starting dishes include an oven-baked tomato made with soya, water and sugar – a playful mix of salty and sweet which is given an added kick of popping candy. The pan crystal to its side is layered with a smoky-cured ham, which on a bed of sweet tomato makes for a master pairing. A small cauldron of ice is laid next which involves a slice of caldo-infused melon that while pleasing to the eye, would have been enjoyed more had it not melted so quickly.
Our waiter Adán follows, beaming a smile with a wooden crate of ‘cigarra de mar’ (a unique Mallorcan sea cray-fish) on a crisp seaweed cracker – clouds of dry ice come too. For such delicate white flesh, the cracker slightly overpowers, but praise must be given for the textures at play – soft, silky and crisp.
Other dishes of recognition go to the ham croquettes (a dish that induced ‘the best I’ve ever tasted’), octopus with dotted toffee sauce and braised lamb cheeks with fried kale. Javier is a master of flavours, handpicking a choice of wines including a notable sweet rose 99 and an organic Tianna white.
We finish with a chamomile and lemon ice-cream with almond sponge cake that cleanses the palette – a perfect finish. Every two weeks there is a change of menu at Es Fanals, which is open from March through to November. A locally-sourced, Michelin-level experience not to be missed.
Why eat here?
Number table 23 will guarantee you a Mallorcan sunset that will stay with for years to come.