Laos restaurant stands tall, structured by large panels of glass. Its architecture is cool, metallic and edgy for the tranquil Colonia Sant Jordí it resides in. However, its block exterior soon softens by a gracious and warm reception from owners Maria and her brother Ladí.
There are three separate floors to Laos, the first is home to the main restaurant, coolly furnished in monochrome with polished black chairs and steel grey table cloths. This modern vibe continues throughout, with the second floor home to a large bar (perfect for large events), and the third a roof-top terrace. Mountains line a distant horizon, but really what Laos lacks in views it makes up for in the quality of its Mediterranean menu and service.
We start with a glossy chicken pâté perfectly formed into a sweet orange globe which is so well-rounded we are mistaken in thinking it is an actual fruit. Upon cutting, it glaze is tangy and sweet, which is made from the juice of local oranges. Softly baked bread is a feathery basis for what is a zingy yet meaty combination of flavours.
Next our starters come, in swift and efficient movements. Maria’s team know every step, cutlery change and plate, which makes for smooth dining. They serve a plate of croquettes, twice the size of what is expected, and twice as delicious. Their golden toasted exteriors are fried to a delicate crisp which induces a satisfying cut when its creamy sauce flows. A nice play on textures is noted when paired with its neighbouring salad: crunchy, velvety and crispy.
Other starters include a plate of finely cut octopus, artistic in its velvety purple tones and dollops of saffron alioli. No force is required when cutting into its soft meat which serves as a gentle reminder of exactly how octopus should be cooked. Chef Jordi Chaves’ talent for seafood also shines in a main of fall-away cod with a spike of tomato pesto and another of corvina, drizzled in a beetroot, orange and carrot sauce.
Two meat dishes shortly follow, the first a beef tartar with light potato crisps and a tower of jenga toast with creamy butter. This only acts as a foreshadowing of the second, which is – for sure – Laos’ statement piece: cuts of juicy steak with hand-cut chips and grilled asparagus.
As darkness falls, neon-coloured table lamps add a pop of colour to an otherwise uniform decor. We end with a crema catalana on a bed of crumbled cake and drizzled strawberry sauce, where a moment of pause is given to its home-made cinnamon ice-cream – beautifully rich and creamy.
Maria, Ladí and the team at Laos present a delicious Mediterranean menu, well-delivered and certainly worth a taste when in Colònia de Sant Jordi.
Why eat here?
A young and edgy ambience with focus on good-quality Mediterranean food.