Word has it that Palma’s Sant Agustí neighbourhood is on the up, and most symptomatic of its rising fortunes is the redevelopment of its Calanova Port area. Opened in 1976 (by the king and queen of Spain no less) a 2018 makeover has given the multi-functional marina a swish contemporary look, as well as adding a new waterfront dining option in the form of the Muelle 327 Gastrodock.
Stepping inside, the decor feels aptly fresh and modern; simply styled with turquoise velvet seating, busy leaf-print wallpaper, and a scattering of potted palms creating a breezy, Mediterranean vibe. But the alfresco terrace is the restaurant’s prime real estate, with tables overlooking the water and pleasingly broad views of the adjacent marina.
Our tasting menu began with a selection of alioli, which cycled through traditional, lime, saffron, and black garlic varieties; freshly baked bread provided the vehicle for the well-made dips. Croquettes next made a predictably early appearance, and featured a satisfyingly crunchy shell with an extraordinarily creamy centre. Less expected was the arrival of the next dish, a bowl shimmering with an emulsion of gold under which lay Shiitake mushrooms in creamy honeyed foam. The overwhelming sweetness sadly left little room for fungi flavours.
Next, what the red prawn carpaccio lacked in presentation it made up for in flavour, with kimchee sauce providing a spicy hit and a small pile of seaweed adding a hint of the ocean. A red tuna tartare then provided the highlight of the meal, with avocado cream and wakame, the meaty fish brought to life with some subtle smoky notes.
By this point along, when the kilo’s worth of T-bone arrived there was little room left to put it. Cooked on a Josper grill, the 30-day aged meat was rare but with a rich, depth of flavour where browned. The accompanying fries were chunky and crispy, with a fluffy middle reminiscent of a good roast potato. Despite barely denting the steak, dessert space was found. One was a tiramisu, which was (rather over) elaborately constructed via the sections of a mocha coffee pot; it was a solid example of the classic, but with unnecessary ceremony and popping candy. A cheesecake was firm and moist, with mango sorbet providing a final palette cleanser.
By the end we had tasted a good cross-section of the extensive menu, which ranges from traditional Mallorcan cooking through pan-Asian fusion, Mediterranean seafood, and gourmet beef. While all the ingredients are there for a top-class eatery, the dining experience – and general consistency of the offering – might be improved by a shorter menu with greater focus.
Why eat here?
A varied menu cooked with quality ingredients in relaxed marina-front setting.