Fulla d’Ostra is a calm and intimate venue just a stone’s throw away from the lively Sant Magi party street in Santa Catalina. The bluesy music sets a relaxing tone and the interiors’ palette of golds and whites creates an ambience of understated sophistication in which to savour the creations of Chilean chef and co-owner, Hector Marceló.
English, Spanish, German
The restaurant first opened in Barcelona in 2014 and has rave reviews online. The whole team has since relocated to Mallorca, including owner and opera singer, Claudio Gutmann and his sister, Martha Arais, who welcomed us for the evening.
“The restaurant is a creative outlet for all of us,” says Martha. Paca Iglesias is the artist behind the golden murals. Light shines from behind the art, complementing that of the industrial down lighters illuminating each table.
The flavours on the menu give an insight into the background of the Andean chef, who has worked in Chile, Argentina, Peru and across Spain. We begin with the ceviche of salmon, croaker and mussels, playfully topped with olive oil caviar. The presentation is pleasing, arriving in an oyster shell shaped dish on a mound of sea salt. The blend of colours is eye-catching and the flavours of coriander and lime are delicious, our only criticism being it’s a little heavy on the olive oil.
Molecular gastronomy plays a part in our next course too. At first glance it looks like a rich red beef tartare with a bright yellow yolk on top but actually it’s made of beetroot, with a mango sphere. Pressing down on the mango releases its juice into the slightly spicy dressing, the bitterness of the shiso leaf adding a striking contrast.
After polishing off some succulent tuna steaks with crisp cassava, we commenced a meat course of Iberian pork shoulder. In contrast to the previous modern presentation, this was served on a traditional plate and reminded us of a British Sunday roast. The meat was well-cooked and the vegetables melt in your mouth.
We recommend sharing the desserts. Rich and beautifully presented, the passion fruit mousse cake and Mexican chocolate will certainly satisfy those who love full-bodied puddings. Chocolate lovers will find nothing more chocolatey than the chocolate cake with raspberry ice cream. As for the mint garnish, it was so intensely flavoured we felt sure it had just been plucked from the plant itself.
Why eat here?
A stylish venue with high-quality fusion cuisine at reasonable prices, Fulla d’Ostra could well be on its way to reproducing the success it enjoyed in Barcelona, here on Mallorca.