16/04/2019 Chef Álvaro Salazar is a well-known name on Mallorca having worked hard to secure his first Michelin-star at his previous restaurant, Argos, in just one year. And it is this drive and passion, combined with the experience and charm of maître d’, Mario, that make dining at Voro memorable.
The restaurant’s noticeably understated décor is unexpected for a high-end establishment, but it soon becomes apparent that nothing in Voro is done by accident. Mario and his expert sommelier, Cecelia, introduce themselves and explain our dining experience for the evening. Multiple courses paired with local Mallorcan wines selected by Cecelia herself. With high expectations, our symphonic journey through Álvaro’s tasting menu begins…
Our introduction to the menu arrives, a clever twist on the Mallorcan ‘huevos rotos’ – crispy potatoes, lobster, green peppers topped with a quail’s egg and served with an earthy, rich lobster broth. The combination of flavour and textures and the accompanying sharpness of the sparkling wine complement each other flawlessly.
Next a quirky dish arrives made up of duck broth encased in a dried corn merengue, peppered with Chinese five-spice and served on a bed of dried spices that flavour this delicate dish. Presented in the shape of a duck, it perfectly highlights that Álvaro’s food is the protagonist in this restaurant and demonstrates that the minimalist décor is merely a canvas on which the food is the art.
After a change of wine, some smaller yet expertly presented dishes appeared that played with texture, temperature and colour. Beef tartare served in a celery stick with a hollandaise of bone marrow that gave an unexpected yet welcome contrast and a steamed Ochio of chicken with truffle that was tasty if somewhat heavy.
A surprise awaited us for the next dish – frozen spicy sobrasada served with crispy pig’s feet and served on a bed of carob cookie. Although the dish may not be to everyone’s taste, we found it smooth, flavourful and texturally exciting.
And now for the chorus… roasted Mere fish that simply melted in a ‘gazpachuelo’ sauce with peas followed by a flaky, soft piece of veal with three beetroots: beetroot jus, beetroot shavings and beetroot bread. The outcome? A perfectly cooked piece of meat that teased our taste buds with the variety of tangy, smooth and sweet sensations.
Our palette cleanser after this journey of flavour was an orange sorbet with grapefruit, crispy quinoa and chili that may only be suited to those of us who like it hot. For those with a sweet tooth, our last course was a ‘Torrija de sela’ – soft brioche with noisette and galangal (a fiery cousin of the ginger family) which was fantastically rich, creamy and indulgent.
At Voro, Álvaro and his team succeed in taking you on a rollercoaster of different tastes with their menu by interspersing the flavour-filled courses with delicate yet complex dishes. The sommelier’s choice of wines is instrumental to the success of each dish and Mario’s exuberant personality and passion shines through in his interaction with his guests. A sure contender for another coveted star, we look forward to seeing Álvaro and the team at Voro grow from strength to strength.
Why eat here?
An eleven course menu that delights, charms, challenges and excites throughout in the beautiful setting of the Park Hyatt.
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